Tucked Away in the Mountains of Georgia
Located in the northeastern region of Georgia, Tusheti is a small, windswept area that has managed to maintain its unique cultural identity despite being on the edge of Europe. The region’s harsh winters and limited accessibility have contributed to its isolation, allowing the locals to preserve their traditional way of life.
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The annual brewing of aludi, a sweet and sour ale, is a significant part of the region’s cultural heritage. Gathered around the cauldron are a group of men who have been brewing aludi together for years, led by a specially elected shulta who oversees the sacred process. This tradition is a hallowed preparation for the coming festival of Atnigenoba, a two-week-long celebration that includes paganistic ram sacrifices, shrine worship, folk dancing, and fiercely competitive horse racing.
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A Region of Stone Shrines and Ancient Traditions
Tusheti is characterized by its breathtaking landscape and lasting folk traditions, particularly in the way of art. The region’s strong history of shepherding has led to the development of wool textiles, with cozy knitted house booties and elaborate carpets in bold geometric patterns being some of the most prized local products. The locals’ connection to their land and heritage is deeply rooted in their traditional trades, such as shepherding, which has become a point of pride as more and more Tushetians trade their peaceful mountain lifestyle for modern opportunities in Georgia’s capital city, Tbilisi.
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Omalo: The Gateway to Tusheti
At the heart of the region is Omalo, a quaint village crowned by the Keselo Fortress. Omalo is the designated gateway to Tusheti, where many wilderness-starved hikers set off to complete one of Georgia’s most famous multi-day treks: Omalo to Shatili, a fortified medieval village deep in the Arghuni Gorge. The five-day trek connects Tusheti with neighboring Khevsureti, another isolated highland region and medieval treasure trove, via an old shepherd’s path.
A Region of Ancient Superstitions and Folk Traditions
Tushetian traditions and culture have been shaped by its extreme isolation and ancient superstitions. Arguably, nothing is more representative of Tushetian culture than the countless khati (stone shrines) and salotsavi (sacred spaces) strewn across its landscape. Carefully laid stone piles adorned with animal skulls and long, curled, bovine horns can be found just about everywhere. Some allow women, many do not, but all are revered for the deity they symbolize.
The locals’ emphasis on the departed is evident in their celebrations, such as Mariamoba, a holiday dedicated to both Saint Mary and deceased loved ones, and Mzebudoba, the solstice and precious winter stillness that will guide them into a fertile spring. Warmed only by their fiery hearths and crackling wood fire ovens, women across Tusheti prepare ritual cakes and breads such as kada and machkati that will serve as offerings to a medley of old gods, orthodox saints, and departed ancestors.
While often forgotten, Kdini in January is when goblins and devils wreak havoc. Not unlike Halloween and Day of the Dead, Kdini is a time when the veil between worlds is thinned. But instead of carving jack-o-lanterns or creating colorful offerings, some locals take to the woods for sminaoba where they’ll eagerly listen for any familiar voices attempting to contact them from beyond.
