At first glance, Izmir appears to be a modern Turkish metropolis, densely populated with unimposing architecture. However, once you delve deeper, you’ll discover that this city was once the epitome of sophistication and elegance.
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Dating back to over a century ago, wealthy Levantine, Greek, Turkish, and Armenian families would promenade along Izmir’s waterfront, flaunting the latest fashions from Paris. They would indulge in imported beer from Munich and cocktails at elegant bars, while their children attended church-run schools to learn French and Latin.
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The Golden Age of Izmir
As one of the stops along the Silk Road, Izmir’s importance grew exponentially in the 17th century. The city’s strategic location made it the safest port for transporting silk from Iran, attracting merchants from all over the world. The Onassis clan traded tobacco, while other Rum (Turkish-born Greeks) made their fortunes selling Smyrna’s famous sticky figs.
Source: media.cnn.com
Levantine families like the Whitalls and Girauds owned factories and mines, while the Armenians were admired for their solid work ethic. The Americans even set up a separate colony, called Paradise, while Jews and Turks lived in adjacent neighborhoods on the water.
At any given time, dozens of languages could be heard in the streets, including English, German, and even Hindi. This multicultural climate left an indelible mark on the city, shaping its architecture and cultural heritage.
The Legacy of Smyrna
The modern-day city stretches around the Gulf of Izmir but started life in old Smyrna, located in the Bayraklı neighborhood. According to legend, Alexander the Great was out hunting on the slopes of nearby Mount Pagos one day and stopped for a nap. Two nemeses appeared in a dream and asked him to build a city where he lay.
As was the norm, Alexander consulted with the oracle Apollo, who advised him to establish a new city center atop the mountain. The Agora of Smyrna was constructed on his orders, featuring four stories high, but only the basement still exists today. Visitors can see rows of elegant stone arches throwing shadows on the ground, highlighting the mechanics of a complex water system.
The foundations of the basilica contain niches decorated with graffiti, as well as engraved and painted images depicting Roman daily life. A short climb to the open ground above gives a great view across grassy fields that once bustled with activity and trade.
The End of an Era
While life at the beginning of the 20th century in Izmir was a whirl of lavish picnics, boating parties, and extravagant dinners, that all changed in September 1922, when Turkey’s war of independence arrived on their doorstep.
The orderly entry into the city of the Turkish army was quickly replaced by chaos. Routed Greek soldiers flooded into the city, heading for the waterfront where naval ships waited to transport them home. Turkish-born Greeks from across Anatolia, fearing retribution, followed closely on their heels.
Within days, thousands of people were stuck on the quay, seeking a way out. A series of fires broke out that burned for days, leaving little of the once-vibrant destination known as Smyrna. Many buildings that escaped incineration were later demolished, after they were left empty and fell into disrepair because of a population exchange in 1923.
