The Land of the Seto: A Mini-Nation Within Estonia

Located in the southeastern part of Estonia, Setomaa is a region that boasts a unique cultural identity, shaped by its history, religion, and dialect. The Seto people have been living in this area for centuries, and their traditions have been preserved through generations.

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One of the most important celebrations in Setomaa is Easter, which is observed before the rest of the country. This is because the Seto people follow the Julian calendar, which is rooted in Orthodox Christianity, and this calendar has its own distinct Easter dates.

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During my visit to Setomaa, I had the opportunity to experience the Seto Easter celebration firsthand. I was invited to a traditional smoke sauna, where I witnessed the preparation of a delicious Easter ham. The sauna was built to retain heat, and the smoke from the ham was allowed to escape just before we entered the sauna. This was a unique experience, and I was amazed by the warmth and hospitality of the Seto people.

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As I explored the region, I came across a local café called Iti Leiväküük, where I was treated to a shot of hansa, a strong clear liquor that tastes more like whisky than vodka. The café was filled with the aroma of traditional Seto food, and I was served a delicious dinner of smoked sausage and bulgur wheat, drenched in cream sauce. The evening was filled with music and laughter, as the locals gathered to celebrate the Easter festivities.

The following day, I joined the Seto Easter parade, which began with men wearing traditional cream woolen coats, black fedora hats, and black boots, carrying a basket on a long pole around the village. They sang a cheerful folk tune in time with their movements, stopping to collect the decorated eggs from each single-story, steep-roofed, wooden home. The women of the leelo choir then took up a polyphonic song and dance in circles, and I was amazed by the beauty and harmony of the music.

After the parade, we made our way to the village green, where a banked arena of sand had been set up for the egg-rolling game. The game was a mix between crazy golf and curling, and the goal was to roll your egg down a ramp of birch bark, hitting the other eggs at the bottom. It was a fun and entertaining game, and I was impressed by the skill and strategy of the players.

Later that day, I visited the carved idol of Peko, the Seto god of crops, fertility, and beer, which is located on a sacred hill surrounded by trees. The idol is a symbol of the Seto people’s deep connection with nature and their reverence for the land. I was also introduced to Old Jüri’s soap shop, where the owner, Silver Hüdsi, makes traditional soap using holy water from the Petseri Monastery on the other side of the border.

As I continued my journey, I crossed the border into Russia, where I visited the village of Podmotsa and the jetty overlooking Lake Pihkva. The lake was frozen, but the scenery was breathtaking, and I was struck by the beauty of the Russian countryside. I also visited the Petseri monastery, which is a crucial pilgrimage site for the Seto people, but unfortunately, I was unable to enter due to the current border restrictions.

The division of Setomaa between Estonia and Russia has had a profound impact on the Seto people, separating them from their ancestral lands and making it difficult for them to visit their ancestors’ graves. However, the Seto people have shown remarkable resilience and adaptability, and they continue to preserve their traditions and culture despite the challenges they face.

In conclusion, my visit to Setomaa was a truly enriching experience, and I was deeply moved by the warmth and hospitality of the Seto people. Their cultural traditions are a treasure trove of history, music, and laughter, and I feel privileged to have had the opportunity to experience them firsthand.

Setomaa: A Region of Rich Cultural Heritage

• The Seto people have a unique cultural identity shaped by their history, religion, and dialect.
• Setomaa is a region located in the southeastern part of Estonia, near the Russian border.
• The Seto people follow the Julian calendar, which is rooted in Orthodox Christianity.
• The Seto Easter celebration is an important tradition in Setomaa, featuring traditional music, food, and decorations.
• The carved idol of Peko, the Seto god of crops, fertility, and beer, is a symbol of the Seto people’s deep connection with nature.