Conquering My Fear of the Ocean: A Journey to Surfing in Indonesia


Source: Noo Saro-Wiwa / media.cntraveler.com

My Lifelong Fear of the Ocean

I have always been overwhelmed by a deep-seated fear of the ocean. Its immense power and depth, the creatures lurking in its enormous swells, have always intimidated me. I recall watching the movie Jaws as a child, which only added to my phobia. The image of a shark lurking beneath the surface, waiting to strike, has been etched in my mind ever since. As a result, I have always avoided the ocean, content to watch from a distance as others enjoyed the water.

Conquering My Fear of the Ocean: A Journey to Surfing in Indonesia
Source: media.cntraveler.com

However, my fear was not just psychological. I am negatively buoyant, which means that I sink rather than float in water. This made it difficult for me to tread water, as I would struggle to stay afloat. As a result, I avoided the ocean in my younger days, preferring to watch from the shore or on a boat as others swam and surfed.

The Turning Point

It wasn’t until I turned 40 that I decided to face my fear head-on. I had always been curious about the ocean and its many wonders, and I wanted to experience it for myself. I began by snorkeling in Palawan in the Philippines, sticking close to my friend as we explored the underwater world. It was an incredible experience, and I felt a sense of wonder and awe that I had never felt before.

Encouraged by my success, I continued to explore the ocean in various parts of the world. I snorkeled in Antigua, Kenya, and the Maldives, marveling at the incredible marine life that inhabited the waters. However, despite my growing confidence in the water, I still had one major fear left: waves. Even small waves made me anxious, and I would often cling to my friends or a lifeline for support.

Learning to Surf in Indonesia

It was on a work assignment in Indonesia’s Mentawai archipelago that I decided to face my fear of waves head-on. I had always been fascinated by the idea of surfing, and I saw this as the perfect opportunity to learn. I was lucky to have a friend who was an experienced surfer, and she agreed to teach me the basics. We headed to the beach, where a group of instructors from the Aloita Resort were waiting to help us.

My instructor, Victoria, was patient and kind, and she quickly put me at ease. She explained the basics of surfing, including how to position myself on the board and how to paddle out to catch a wave. I was nervous but excited, and I couldn’t wait to get started.

We spent the day on the beach, practicing our skills and getting ready to hit the waves. I was a bit hesitant at first, but Victoria’s calm demeanor and encouragement helped me to relax and focus. When it was finally time to try surfing, I was nervous but ready. I paddled out to the waves, feeling the sun on my skin and the wind in my hair. As I caught my first wave, I felt a rush of excitement and exhilaration. I was surfing!

Of course, it wasn’t all smooth sailing. I took a few wipeouts, including one particularly embarrassing one where I ended up on my hands and knees, wearing a life jacket. But despite the setbacks, I was determined to keep going. And as I stood up on the board for the first time, I felt a sense of pride and accomplishment that I had never felt before.

The Lessons I Learned

As I reflect on my experience learning to surf in Indonesia, I am struck by the lessons I learned. Firstly, I learned that facing my fears was the key to overcoming them. By confronting my fear of the ocean and waves head-on, I was able to build my confidence and overcome my phobia.

Secondly, I learned the importance of taking risks and stepping outside my comfort zone. By trying something new and challenging, I was able to discover new strengths and abilities that I never knew I had.

Finally, I learned that the journey is just as important as the destination. The process of learning to surf was just as rewarding as the actual act of surfing itself. I met new people, saw new places, and experienced new things, all of which added to the richness and depth of my experience.